Monday, 4 February 2019


Chinese New Year's Eve, 2019 1000

I did go to find cheese on Saturday but rather than go to the Baian centre on a “fingers crossed they have some” mission, I decided to see if I could find the new Metro store which opened here late last year.

Having located the address in English online, I then had Alice translate it to Chinese and text me in order to show it to a taxi driver. I was dropped opposite Lanzhou Shopping Centre, a large mall I have never seen before. On going inside I searched the information board posted beside the lifts. Well, I was in the right place, it said Metro was on floor B2.

On taking the lift down and exiting, I found I was in an underground car park! Confused, after all the information posted right next to the lifts had said B2, I went back up to try again. Asking other shoppers yielded nothing but “ting bu dongs” (I don't understand) and my blood pressure was rising. I hadn't come all that way only to return home defeated. And Jesus, was it crowded! I know it was Saturday but for some reason I thought new year was Wednesday when in fact it is tomorrow.

Eventually I found a “concierge” attired in an impressive uniform boasting more gold rings than the Duke of Edinburgh's and approached him for help, convinced he would also be a ting bu dong. He did speak a little English and confirmed I wasn't going potty, it was indeed on B2 but not accessible via the lift. I was given directions to descend an escalator, walk to McDonald's and then find another escalator down to the shop.

I found it, walked in amid the Madding Crowds clamouring for their “nian huo” (new year shopping) and couldn't find a trolley. So I walked back out to search. Thereupon I heard a commotion astern of me and turned to see a security guard running towards me! I had crossed the Maginot Line and to exit even without a purchase I had to now go around to the dedicated “no purchase” exit! Sod that for a game of soldiers, so I dismissed the guard's instructions and told him in no uncertain terms that I was trying to find a bloody trolley!

He understood my mime and his attitude changed, I fact he came back out with me and tried to help. When he failed he said “wait a moment”. I didn't. It hadn't taken me long to figure out that the way to commandeer a trolley was to waylay someone exiting the store and pounce the second they removed their bags. Triumphantly, I re-entered and gave a big thumbs up as I pushed my trolley, which was about the size of a small family car.

I will be returning but not on a weekend and certainly after new year. Whilst it will not remove all my needs for Taobao online shopping it will certainly cover half of it, maybe more. I need to be there when it is quieter, the throngs made lingering near the displays almost impossible but I did buy some bits and bobs and, most importantly, they had cheese! A good selection too and I bought three packs for two thirds the price of what I usually get in Baian (if they have any). It's not quite City Store in Shanghai (which is Christmas on a stick if you live in far-flung Chinese places) but for me in Lanzhou it is a Godsend.

Yesterday I killed three birds with one stone. I went to buy gas, my monthly medicines and, having survived on two sweaters for the past eight years, I bought two new ones. One of my old ones came from the UK and is still perfectly fine apart from some brown stains on the front, sustained years ago from a washing machine I think and which will not disappear. The new ones are a bit snug even though they were the largest that could be found but they will stretch I hope!

I did notice when walking through Peili Square that the centrepiece, unlike previous years, has not been decorated for the new year. We've had chickens and dogs in the past but this year, nothing. It makes me wonder if perhaps the Year Of The Pig is affected by the presence of a sizeable Muslim community here. If true, that both does and doesn't make sense in equal measure. I must try to find out the reason.

Tomorrow Jody (Annie's Chinese teacher) wants to meet for dinner before she jets off on the 10th to Auckland for a holiday and a scouting reconnaissance to see whether she wants to relocate for a job offer. She seems to think the buses won't be too crowded for me to cross the river, given that everyone should be celebrating at home or visiting relatives. I shall see.

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